When treating your hair with professional products it is important to understand your hair and its structure. It is easier then to visualize how and why the product works its magic. So let's dig in and see what our is hair made out of!
Our hair is composed of 95% keratin (like our nails), a remarkably strong fibrous protein, and is built from cells similar to those of your skin.
What is the Cuticle?
Think of the cuticle as the roof's shingles or tiles.
It is made up of 8-10 layers of flat overlapping translucent cells tightly packed together to protect the cortex.
What's keeping these cuticle cells together?
These cells are stabilized by disulphide and hydrogen bonds which are the strongest naturally occurring bonds. These bonds are responsible to keep your hair in its natural form (curly, wavy, straight), although, the actual shape is formed at the follicle. The only way to alter disulphide bonds is through perming or hair relaxing/chemical straightening. Disulphide bonds also gives your hair its strength and elasticity. Hydrogen bonds on the other hand, can be easily altered by applying water or heat (straighteners, blow dryers, etc). It will maintain that structure until getting it wet again.
What is cuticle's responsibility?
Keeping the cuticle in good health is essential because it is responsible for your hair's hydration, flexibility, shine, and texture. A healthy cuticle is smooth and flat.
What can disrupt cuticles health?
Bad or harsh weathers, like here in Canada, as well as chemical processing (bleaching, dyeing) can lift the cuticle and disrupt this balance and make your hair appear dry and brittle.
The Cortex.
I am hoping that by now you understand the basics of the cuticle so lets move on to the cortex. Cortex is the house that the cuticle is protecting. It is the largest constituent of the hair. It is made up of long keratin filaments that are also tightly bonded together by disulphide and hydrogen bonds. Cortex is also home to the hairs pigment (melanin granules) which is responsible for your hair color. The health of the cortex is fully depended on the integrity of the cuticle. Isn't cool? Alright, lets keep going!
What can damage the cortex?
Perming, chemical treatments, dyeing. These procedures are the ones responsible for opening / lifting the cuticle. The chemicals within these products penetrate your hair destabilize the disulphide bonds within the cortex, both weakening and disorganizing it. The exposure of the cortex results in significantly increased hair breakage, split ends, decreased color and glossiness, essentially caused by mechanical failure
The Medulla
The medulla is only present in thicker, coarse hair types.It is the innermost layer of your hair. It consists of a soft, thin core of transparent cells and air spaces. The function of the medulla is currently unknown but debated in the literature.
Pretty amazing no? If you read up to here, contact us for your hairfessional certificate! ;) Just kidding. Thank you for reading. Let us know if it was helpful.
Here are some of our favorite bond repairing treatments, which we learned, play very essential role in keeping your cuticle healthy.
Amika The Kure packed with innovative bond cure technology. Formulated with both plant butters and vegan proteins. The Kure is rich in nutrients like omega fatty acids, vitamins, and minerals, and can provide keratin-like benefits from a plant source. We absolutely love The Kure as well as many of our happy customers who have tried it.
Patented OLAPLEX® Bond Building Technology works on a molecular level to repair damaged and broken bonds. It has worked miracles on many lost hopeless souls. Thank you Olaplex!